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When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.